Shaun Riebl's tips on bike fit
| Note: Shaun is a USA Cycling certified coach, working on his Masters in Exercise Scient at UCCS. He races with UCCS cycling club. |
| Proper bicycle fit can be compared to a "broken-in" comfortable pair of shoes. Once you put them on they just feel right in place and no others would feel as good. We know that a proper bicycle riding position can increase cycling economy significantly, enabling you to go longer and harder without becoming uncomfortable from neck, back, knee, hand, or arm pain. The main point to remember is that it is simple to adjust the bicycle, but not your body. |
| The cheapest and easiest way to set up your bicycle requires a few materials: a tape measure, a plumb line (string with a weight such as a washer or bolt at one end), a stationary trainer, your cycling shoes and shorts (your bike would be a good idea as well!), and a friend (although, not required). |
| First, saddle position must be dialed in using three variables: height, setback (fore/aft position), and tilt. Saddle height can affect pedaling efficiency and knee health. Too low of a saddle can cause excessive knee bend at the top of the pedal stroke leading to anterior (frontal) knee pain. A saddle that is too low high can result in numbness or discomfort in the area between the legs where the saddle is while riding, in addition to posterior (behind) knee pain. |
| To achieve a proper saddle height without doing any measurements, warm up on an indoor (stationary) trainer for 5-10 minutes to loosen ligaments and tendons, warm muscles, and get into your personal riding position. Then unclip from the pedals, place your heels on the pedals and pedal slowly backwards. You want your heels to almost loose pedal contact and your knee to be fully extended at the 6 o'clock position (bottom of the pedal stroke). |
| Two methods are utilized when figuring numerical measurements for saddle height: the Lemond and Zinn methods. Both of these protocols require you to be bare footed and in cycling shorts, standing flush against a wall with either a broomstick or book between you thighs level to the ground. Raise the object until it makes contact and pressure equivalent to that experienced while riding your bike. Measure the distance from the floor to the top of the object in centimeters. According to the Lemond method, if you multiply this measurement by .833 you have the distance from the bottom bracket spindle to the top of the saddle. Zinn's method requires you to use 1.09 as a multiplier and is the distance from the center of the pedal spindle at the bottom of the pedal stroke to the top of the saddle. It must be noted that both of these numeric measurements are an estimation and are influenced by orthotics or insoles and thicker cycling shorts. |
| In order to estimate the proper saddle setback (the fore and aft position) be sure to be loose and warmed up. Subsequently, have a friend drop the plumb line (mentioned above) from the top of the knee cap (patella) with the cranks in a horizontal orientation. The plumb line should be at the end of the crank arm; this is where the knee's center of rotation is directly above the pedal axle. |
| Keep in mind that the saddle height is affected by the fore/aft positioning: raising the saddle may be desired if the saddle is pushed forward and the opposite can be said if the saddle is moved rearward. Proper saddle setback prevents injury and transfers power to the pedals at the most beneficial crank arm position. |
| Saddle tilt brings about specific concerns. If the saddle is tilted downward, compressed vessels, soft tissues, and nerves can result creating pain and discomfort. Moreover, if this discomfort persists, greater damage can occur. Upward tilting of the saddle can cause excessive pressure on the hands and arms generating uncomfortable sensations and unnecessary fatigue while riding for an extended time. |
| The saddle should be kept level; no questions asked. A carpenter's level or yardstick compared to a windowsill or table top can be used to get this proper alignment. Some exceptions might be those riders with excessive pelvic tilt or swayback. |
| The final aspect when setting up your bicycle to your body's architecture is the handlebar position. This is considered the most personal aspect of bicycle fit and is determined by personal goals, riding type, and the body's limitations such as experience, flexibility, and age. |
| Lennard Zinn recommends two measurements: 1) the vertical height form the ground to the top of the saddle 2) the vertical height from the ground to the top of the handlebars. He suggests that aggressive/taller riders allow no more than a 10 centimeter difference between the two measurements, while recreational/smaller riders want a much smaller drop to the handlebars than that. Handlebar rotation is generally considered efficient when the bar-ends are parallel to the top tube or when slightly directed toward the rear wheel's axle. The main point to remember with handlebar positioning is that it is the most personal preference of a proper bicycle fit. |
| Proper bicycle fit can deter and eliminate any pain or discomfort while riding. Moreover, it has been proven to help better cycling economy, enabling riders to use more oxygen and generate more power. Your bicycle should fit you and be tailored to your needs, not any one else's or some "pro's" set-up. Proper bicycle fit is to help you attain the most comfort and enjoyment while out riding so don't suffer any longer and get your bike to fit you! |
| --Shaun Riebl will be happy to assist VeloNation members with fit questions. |
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